Nebaj, June 12-17

Early on I had decided to do some hiking in Guatemala. The one-day hikes in Lanquin was a good start, but they were only 22 km per day and no more than 800 vertical meters up. I wanted some more challenge, and after careful consideration I chose the Nebaj area.

For one thing they have never had a reported tourist crime, which in many countries is normal, but NOT in Guatemala. Also, the trekking industry is very undeveloped here and the only trekking company is owned by locals, so my money would go to the local people. And of course, it is maybe the most beautiful part of the country.

But things did NOT start out good. First I had the worst possible luck on the way from Lanquin. That the journey took a lot of time was no surprise (10 hours to get 80 kilometers!), but that I had the bad luck of constantly sitting on the wrong side of all the four vehicles I took along the road that is regarded as the most beautiful in Central America, that really pissed me off.

So sorry everyone, I have no pictures from the journey, even though I can confirm that it WAS extremely beautiful when I was peeking between people’s heads, armpits, etc. If you are ever in the region, this road is HIGHLY recommended!

The main street in Nebaj. Yes, it really WAS that boring!

When I got to town I meant to go to the local trekking company (Guide Ixil) and set up a trek for the following day, but instead I fell asleep at the hotel and slept from five o’clock to eight in the morning! I guess I needed it, but I lost a whole day of trekking.

Then when I got to Guide Ixil the following morning, it turned out that the trekking guidebook promised in Lonely Planet was out of print. And the promised 1:50000 scale maps were not available either. And to top everything off, there was NO ONE available that spoke English in the whole town of 11.000 people! Most of the time down here I can always get translation help from other backpackers or voluntary workers, but here even they weren’t around – this really WAS way off the beaten track!

By this time I was REALLY close to just give Nebaj up and go south to Lake Atitlan or something and the main reason I didn’t, was that it was too late to make it to Atitlan the same day by bus! Luckily enough I persevered, and Nebaj turned out to be one of the most memorable places on my journey...